Furnishing Your Parrot Cage
A proper cage is one of, if not the most important item in keeping a companion parrot. The bar spacing has to be appropriate, not wide enough for the parrot to stick it’s head through and not so small that he or she would get a leg caught between the bars. The cage needs to be of appropriate size. Often, a cage advertised for a specific species is too small for that particular species. When possible, opt for the next size up. There has to be enough room for the bird to move around while having numerous perches, toys, and dishes in the cage. The parrot should have enough areas to hang out in and have enough space for vigorous wing flapping. Some species need bigger cages than similar sized bars due to their active natures, for example, Goffin’s cockatoos and caiques. I often compare a too small cage to having a bathroom to live in for a human, only to be let out a few hours a day.
The cage should be made of safe material such as powder coated steel or stainless steel. For the large cockatoos and macaws, stainless is best as they often will remove the finish on the other cages. Of course, strength is important too. My blue and gold macaw, Razz, has popped several welds on her old cage which had to re re-enforced before I hot her a new one. Funny, she is really easy on her toys. The cage should also be relatively easy to clean. I believe that one of the reasons parrots are given up is due the their messy nature. Being lazy by nature I know I would get REALLY fed up cleaning a difficult to clean cage week after week for the rest of my life. I prefer using paper to line the bottom so I can check the parrots dropping every day for consistency and color as I’m changing the papers. One of the first signs of illness is a change in droppings. Don’t freak out if the parrot has had beets or blueberries though, or had a diet change to colored pellets from undyed. That cost me well over $100 about 10 years ago. Caillou is back on undyed pellets.
I prefer dome-top cages as opposed to play top models as they have more room inside, and I feel that when a parrot is out of it’s cage, it should also be away from the cage for variety and to prevent cage dominance.
Placement of the cage is also very important. A room where the family spends a great deal of time is usually best, as long as the bird gets 10–12 hours of dark, uninterrupted sleep every night. Putting a cover on the cage that is in a room with a TV or talking people is not good enough. The cage should be away from heat sources, as well as air conditioners. Sudden room temperature fluctuations are harmful. The parrot should also be able to hide form perceived danger and have at lest one side of the cage against a wall, preferable two sides. Away from the door is best. The kitchen is not a good choice due to cooking fumes. If it is not convenient to place the main cage in a room that is quiet during the late evening, perhaps a small sleeping cage in a quiet room would be a good alternative. Just like me, sleep deprived parrots can be cranky. They can also have their health compromised.
Once a proper cage has been selected, it is time to furnish it. Perches of different materials and diameters are necessary for the parrot’s feet. If all the perches are of the same diameter there is a possibility arthritis to set in Feet need to be exercised for proper health. Natural wood perches are beneficial, some hard, some soft enough to chew apart to be replaced when necessary. Rope perches are best for sleeping on as they are easier on the feet, I prefer sisal as it is easier to clean as it noes not hold water like the cotton rope perches do. It’s best to buy specific sisal perches as sisal rope sold in hardware stores are treated with fungicide which is toxic. The sleeping perch should be placed near the top of the cage which is where most parrots prefer to roost and there is less chance of the perch to be soiled by feces. Perches used to trim nails are also effective for some birds but in my experience they are not food for macaws due to the birds weight. It can lead to sore feet. Don’t place perches directly above items which should not be soiled, especially food and water bowls and hard to clean items. Other than the sleeping perch, perches should be placed in the middle and low areas of the cage to maximize use of space. The lower perches should have enticing food items near by and favorite toys to encourage the parrot to utilize the entire cage.
Water and pellets should be offered in easy-to-get-to spots in the cage, as should vegetables and fruit. Nuts and seeds are in, in my opinion, best offered in different areas. Examples are treat cages, mazes, and foraging buckets. The foraging bucket can have a layer of small stones, big enough not to get swallowed and small enough for the parrot to pick up. These should be very well rinsed and boiled to disinfect them. Put a 1-2" layer of stones in the bucket and add a bit of seed. The parrot has to manipulate the stones to get the seed. It’s all about keeping the parrot busy.
Parrots having the intelligence of three-to-five-year-old humans, toys are extremely important to their well being. There are different types, such as preening toys, shredding toys, chew toys, sound toys, foot toys, and indestructible toys. There should be at least one of each type in the cage at all times. Several of each type should be on hand to rotate on a weekly or more basis. Shredding toys are often made of cotton rope, make sure the strands of rope are not of a dangerous length as it can lead to strangulation or loss of a foot. They can also be made of natural plant fibers such as palm leaves. Chew toys are usually made of wood, often dyed with food coloring. Sound toys include bells, never use “jingle bell” type bells as they can trap toes and beaks. In my opinion the best type of bell is tubular shaped with the clapper out of reach.